MELBOURNE FASHION WEEK 2019 - THE LOW DOWN
Photo by Tim Allen
My my, wasn’t it an exciting week in Melbourne? The Spring warmth gave us a dose of much needed Vitamin C, influencers off-loaded their carbon flight emissions on their trajectories to their front row seats and laneways were converted to add some gritty juxtapositions to flowy and architectural pieces, the end products of mental and physical hard labour. Fashion Week was truly upon us, and for a second year running M/FW is Caron certified neutral through their planned reduction strategies and support in projects including reforestation in NSW and an initiative which enables aboriginal communities to reduce emissions through improved land management practices in the Kimberley.
There is always a tangible hum in the air during fashion week, which can only be affiliated with guests suited up in adventurous combinations that push the boundaries, the excitement of the uncharted designs that are about to expand our imaginations and suppress the bank accounts and the overall societal change looming in the background. Fashion has always been a reflection of the times in which we live in and caves the way for the future yet to come. So with everything currently in the news cycle it is only fitting that our societal issues and starkly prominent in the fashion environment presented to us.
We say bravo to Melbourne Fashion Week, for not only are they tackling the carbon emissions (in turn encouraging participants off-load their emissions in suit) but they are also supporting designers who have incorporated sustainable initiatives into their own production practices, running the event on 100% renewable electricity, serving 60% vegetarian catering options, using reusable cups and no straws and providing gift bags that are 100% carbon offset and use an innovative recycled construction waste made out of limestone and resin, neat huh? Considering this is M/FW’s 25th year running, it’s only a fist-pumping moment when you see companies be progressive and reflective of what the community need.
So what was the general mood on the runway?
Well there were silks, pastel hues, splashes of bold neon and plenty of slingback grandpa tourist sandals teamed with dresses (the PRADA/CECEILE BAHNSEN trend travelled with confidence to the Australian shores). Just touching on shoes alone, it seems as though the single strap sandal and midi-heel will stick around as well, thanks to THE ROW AND PRADA. Boy those Europeans have a way of wrapping us around their little fingers. Ruffles and feminine voluminous shapes were eye-catching and effective, not to mention empowering. We loved the snake print, gingham and structural statement bags. So here is a little gift pack of our own for your eyes to feast on.
SHIFTING WORLDS
(@shiftingworlds) making their M/FW debut at our international runway. The multi-designer boutique stocks an impressive selection of labels hard to find in Australia, including @maryam_nassir_zadeh, @pleatspleaseisseymiyake, @neheraofficial and @jilsander.
LOIS HAZEL
Lois Hazel was launched March 2015 and is committed to sustainable and ethical practices. Offering 100% transparency on sourcing and production for each element of their garments with all craftsmanship completed either in house or by a network of local seamstresses.
NAGNATA
Launched in 2017 by sister designers Laura May and Hannah, they are driven by design and textile innovation and believe style does not need to be sacrificed in the pursuit of sustainably produced fashion. NAGNATA are committed to minimising the waste of raw materials in fashion production and keeping the use of synthetic fibres in their textiles to a minimum. Although their collections vary they have designed with a collection of organic cotton technical knitwear styles designed with zero yarn waste and an Australian Merino Wool core performance seamless knitwear line 'THE SENSUALITY OF SEAMLESS', developed in collaboration with The Woolmark Company.
CEDAR AND ONYX
Design-duo and gal-pals, Kathryn Cowle and Jessica Speers, started with a simple idea, to create liveable clothing for fashionable women. This grew into the eco-conscious, Australian made label. Cedar & Onyx is committed to creating garments for fashion-conscious gals on the go. Understated luxury, natural fibres and clean lines are the embodiment of the Cedar & Onyx design ethos. By sourcing sustainable fibres and maintaining ethical manufacturing practices, Cedar & Onyx produce luxurious investment pieces that will become cherished parts of the Cedar & Onyx gal’s wardrobe.
AUTARK
Our new favorite label. Launched in 2016, autarky’s pieces are carefully constructed, locally in the designer Sophia's home of Adelaide, Australia. Production is monitored to ensure that wastage is minimised through the limited and attentive production of pieces, and that all autark garments are created ethically and fairly. Created from the most luxurious of silks, cottons, linens and an array of natural fibers, that are carefully considered in their construction for maximum wearability and versatility.
NORTH DESIGNS
North creates Australian-made quality pieces. Fabrics are hand-screen printed and prints are sourced from art centers in Indigenous communities. We adore the initiative, and idea to meaningfully preserve the independence, craftsmanship, skills and talent among Indigenous artists. Pieces are made in Australia, using ethical production practices and this not-for-profit organization provides an income stream for artists & their families as well as strengthens local communities.
NGALI
Ngali supports Indigenous talent, mindful manufacturing and style. They are keen to do good in the world by supporting some of Australia’s most talented Indigenous artists, who live in places remote and unheard of. Ngali help bring these artist’s unique artworks to the world by including it in their range of premium-quality clothing and homewares. They also help to protect the Indigenous people and our Country through a just-in-time manufacturing mindset to reduce waste and actively work to reduce their carbon footprint. Ngali translates to ‘we’ or ‘us’ in a number of Aboriginal languages, through their brand, they’re creating the ‘us’ they’d like to see: a harmonious, sustainable and equitable union of people with the planet. Can’t get a brand vision much better than that.
SZN
SZN is an independent label designed and made in Australia, that focuses on simplicity and craftsmanship to produce soulful and intelligent garments, which are refined through time, contemplation and work. Based in Melbourne, Australia SZN is the work of fashion designer Suzan Dlouhy, recipient of the inaugural Best in Category Fashion Design Award at the Victorian Premier's Good Design Awards. With an ethos of 'Fashion is art', SZN uses reductive pattern making to produce minimal garments in organic and sustainable fabrics.
ARNSDORF
LEE MATTHEWS
Gosh, their runway was just so melancholy and dreamy. The billowy dresses and peachy pink stage production made us giddy with excitement for summer. Lee Matthews the revival is here, and boy are we excited for all of the upcoming designs.
CHLOE MOTTAU
MELBOURNE FASHION WEEK TAKE-AWAYS:
Don’t throw away your gone to Barcelona grand-daddy sandals
Splashes of neon green aren’t strictly limited to the rave den
You’re allowed to wear your tracksuit pants/activewear outside as fashun wear (personally I wouldn’t only venture as far as cashmere/wool trackies.
Invest in a raincoat jacket or wet-slick look trench
A clear/translucent rain jacket is a highly effective layering tool if you want to show off the garment underneath. All for practicality meets function.
RAINS
RAINS
RAINS
Grab any old wicker basket and done it as a handbag for ultimate prairie chic vibes
BÚL
Missing summer so much that you want to douse yourself in tangerine from top to toe, is so fine.
BÚL
Give the hair straightener a much needed holiday and let your goddess curls come out.
BÚL
Images via Getty Images, Zimbio, Vogue Runway and Melbourne Fashion Week.
BY VERONIKA MAKOVEY
Veronika Makovey is the founder of MOSS, which she likens to taking Ginseng; a hearty dose of happiness and mental clarity. She has also just recently embraced having curly hair, only having wasted 28 years straightening.