Feature written by Veronika Makovey

Lois is a bundle of positivity and radiant energy, as you can probably tell from when she came onto our podcast, if you’ve already had a chance to listen to it. An active vegan herself, giving up cheese and all, she carries her ethical mindset with her in life and within her brand. Honesty being a word frequented by her, both in her Honest Woman series and hanging boldly on her office wall. Lois created a brand that was built upon the foundation of being ethical and sustainable from the get go. By starting her brand with this clear ideology she was able to make decisions that aligned with these two guiding pillars; from the fabrics she sources, where the garments are produced, who makes the garments, the printing company that produce her catalogues, to the toilet paper that she stocks in her studio warehouse.

At the start of her career, after graduating from RMIT Lois went travelling to New York and then London to intern for companies like Marchesa, Iris Van Herpen, ByBorre and Marianne Kemp in Amsterdam, until the reality of having a long-distance relationship led her to that crossroad in having to make the decision as to where she would continue to reside. Upon returning to Melbourne, Lois searched for a job at a company that valued creating ethical and sustainable clothing, but the right job didn’t pop up. With a strong desire for creativity, making things and being absorbed within the creative process, Lois couldn’t foresee herself working in the technical jobs that were being presented to her, and so she set about putting the wheels in motion to start her own label. Although this was a huge call and a jump into the unknown it proved to be the right move with doors beginning to open for her the more she progressed.

It is that innate passion and determination to keep sustainability at the forefront of her mind which set up Lois Hazel, a brand upon whose foundation is all about providing clothes to a diverse range of woman that are made with care and consideration. I was curious to find out whether or not her studies had anything to do with the creation of a sustainable brand. The answer was no, sustainability wasn’t taught explicitly whilst she was at university, however interestingly she did complete a trend-forecasting subject and learnt that there will be a new buzz-word circulating soon; that word being sustainability. Lois credits her open mindedness to being brought up in Hong Kong and being exposed to other cultures. Her studies also played a big role, teaching her various pattern-making techniques and bringing light to the sensation of being able to proclaim that her outfit was made entirely herself. This inevitably became the catalyst for her passion for sustainability. Lois discussed that from here on in her passion for sustainably created garments became contagious, yet she is keenly aware of being realistic that purchasing sustainably-made clothing isn’t easy for all people, as it can be costly; she is very mindful to consider all demographics in her thinking, and show an understanding for the circumstances in which one might find themselves compelled to having to buy clothes from giant retailers or fast fashion companies.

When asked about the most tiresome facet of her job, she says the production side, very much looking forward to the day when she can outsource all of the production side to a factory specialising in ethical production. Having written her thesis on sweatshops and the conditions or jobs which these women, sometimes men, endure led her to making a point of knowing each person who makes her garments and ensuring that they are celebrated as much as she, as they are just as integral to the garment coming to be, as well as the brand’s fruition.

So why have a transparent label? I implore you dear reader to just count how many transparent labels you know of. How many brands disclose where their garments are made, where their fabrics were created or sourced from, what conditions the farmers underwent in order to harvest the seed/plant/tree, who sewed the item and unveil why the item costs as much as it does?. Lois is adamant to bare all of these details, as she believes it will allow the buyer to gain a deeper appreciation for the process that has been undertaken and the journey that the item has travelled in order to be in the store. She lists online, underneath each piece for sale, everything she uses from the brand stickers, packaging tape, postage box materials, size labels, infolabels, care labels, binding, thread, fabric and where and by whom the item was made by to give customers a true depiction of the level of care and consideration for the environment that has been taken.

It’s not an easy feat by any stretch to have a sustainable brand, and we at MOSS are keen to promote brands that are almost entirely operating sustainably and/or ethically, as we understand that it can be quite challenging. Furthermore being close to entirely sustainable is a whole lot better than not at all and because Amber Valetta told us to embrace our imperfections, and what she says we do. Lois is of the same mindset, admitting that she is not perfect but she is holding herself accountable and continuing to improve and get better with every capsule, something she is achieving with eminence. Some of the sustainable steps that she has already employed are: using hemp fabric (a very sustainable material) and converting to using a GOTS certified organic cotton knit that is made in Melbourne for her jerseys.

With that said though, the overwhelming task of having a sustainable brand does turn many emerging and existing designers off the idea of even investigating in alternative means of production, due to its complexity. Even Lois at times gets caught up in decision making such as real leather vs. vegan leather, as one is cruel to animals yet the other can wreak havoc on the environment. Which decision is more ethical? We decided on an agreement that just because at times things are not entirely sustainably made, if they are made well they could last for many many years, which is sustainable in itself.

Deciding on whether being vegan or ethical as a brand is another huge decision that some designers feels as though they have to choose between at times. Lois faced this on numerous occasions, as sometimes organic fabrics cost more, and this premium is then reflected in the final cost. Lois explained the dilemma as whether or not she wanted this premium to be taken on by her customers which could lead to the product being too costly for the consumer, making it not a profitable decision for the business, if they wanted to remain competitive or profitable as a business.

At the end of the day all one can be sure of is that when starting your own label there are a tonne of considerations and if there is one thing you can take away from this article and Lois’ learnings, is that you set your intentions from the very beginning so that you can carry this with you whilst the company is forming. Lois’ final words of wisdom for any new emerging designer being; to go with your gut, take that leap of faith, even if it’s not relatively within your reach and be realistic in your vision.